Posts from the ‘Compost’ category

The Worm Farm Seat

Inspired by a photo (seen below) we saw from our mates who used to run Urban Bush Carpenters, I organised a worm farm seat to be made at our recent Permaculture Design Course by our *wonderful* Course Coordinator, Blake Harder. -1

The key functions of this particular worm farm are to process food scraps from the kitchen – providing worm castings and worm wee for the kitchen garden nearby. It’s also central to the social area that’s integrated into the same area, providing a big comfy seat for a few people to hang out on.

In case you don’t know about compost worms yet, they’re highly beneficial for the soil and food crops – you can read about them here. In short, they’re awesome and you want them.

Blake built it out of an old bathtub and timber, only the screws and hinges were bought from the local hardware. We didn’t quite manage to take step-by-step photos of the process as we were all a bit busy (sorry), however here are some of Blake’s sketches and photos of the students filling it up and getting it operational…

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IMG_5803The lid detail

After watching Blake build the worm farm between classes, the students finally got to come out and help finish it off. Blake thought it best to surprise them all by hiding in the empty worm farm and jumping out at just the right moment. It was a very, very good surprise.

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Crucial to a good worm farm is drainage. Blake made a false floor out of lattice and shade cloth which is cut to the right size that it can wedge into the bathtub nicely, leaving a gap that’s approximately 10cm deep, plenty of room for the worm wee to travel through the plug hole and letting in good air to the system.

IMG_5667James and Blake showcasing the false floor which is cut to just the right size so it wedges into the bath tub, approximately 10cm from the bottom.

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The next step is to fill the worm farm with a range of organic matter. I’ve seen worm farms with only cow poo/horse poo, so it’s not essential to have diverse ingredients, but I prefer diversity at every opportunity. With this in mind, we filled the worm farm with leaf litter, some half composted organic matter, mixed greens from the kitchen and water.

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We emptied the compost worms into the top of the bath and quickly covered them as they hate sunlight. So quickly, I didn’t get a chance to get their photo. Bummer.

To help moderate the moisture and temperature levels, we put a simple layer of damp cardboard on top. You could also use newspaper, hessian or thick pads of straw. I generally recommend against using carpet as most modern carpet has heavy glues in it which will harm the worms.

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Directly below the bathtub’s plug hole sits a bucket to collect the “worm wee” which can then be diluted and placed on the garden. You could build your worm farm slightly higher so you can have a large bucket beneath it, or find a bucket with a bigger capacity (and is still short) – whatever works for you.

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IMG_5727Some nifty handles made from old rope. Easy!

IMG_5623Alice and Ashlee, just acting casual

The finished product. We’re in love with this design and are looking at making our own version suited to our home. We’re also a big fan of Blake, he’s an absolute legend, a highly organised, passionate, “can-do” permaculturalist – our kind of guy. If you need help with almost anything, we can’t recommend him high enough.

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Subdividing Comfrey

We’re in the very early stages of establishing our small mixed orchard which is both exciting and a lot of work. When you live on a steep block everything is a lot of work. Due to our every-changing levels we have quite of lot of earth banks, which are much more affordable compared to installing retaining walls. So, we’ve been experimenting with different plants to see which ones can handle the tough love environment – comfrey is one of them.

When you’re planting out medium to large areas with plants, learning how to propagate them yourself saves you big bucks, so we do a fair bot of it at our place. Here’s how we do it with comfrey.

IMG_0756To get started with subdividing your comfrey plant, find one you like, either in your own garden or a friends, and dig it up. Pop it in a bucket of water before subdividing to give it a good soak and prepare it for what’s to come.

When you’re ready, pull off 98% of the leaves, leaving just the tiniest ones which will still catch and transfer sunlight into the plant’s system. As you can see below, in one plant there are 5 clearly defined ‘sub plants’ which can easily be divided and planted independently, however we’re going to go further and get 12 plants out of this one cluster.

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How do we turn 1 plant into 12? Well, when digging up a comfrey plant, get as much of its root system as possible. You can chop the roots up into pieces (no less than 1 inch’ish) and plant them separately – each one will sprout into its own plant. This is also why comfrey has a bad reputation for spreading throughout your garden and taking over. Often, comfrey is planted near, or in, people’s vegetable gardens where soil is seasonally turned over and disturbed. I NEVER recommend this as when you harvest your annual vegies or dig in crops  you can unknowingly propagate an impressive amount of comfrey plants by digging into their root zone and chopping up bits of root. Each one of those ‘bits’ then turns into its own, vigorous plant… Taking over your vegie garden and making you have strong, negative feelings towards it.

So we only plant comfrey in areas which will never have their soil disturbed, they’re planted once and then left there. For us, this is in our orchard and edible forest garden where it does a bang up job of helping to stabilise steep slopes and being a multifunctional plant with many benefits.

IMG_0759This comfrey plant has an impressively fat tap root which we chopped up extensively

So get out your secateurs and chop up your plant into as many pieces as possible, you can also just use your hands to snap the root into sections, however it’s harder to control the sizes you get.

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Chop up the roots, no smaller than one inch. Each of these root nuggets will sprout into their own plant.

We’re planting our comfrey around 30cm apart which is quite close as they bush up thickly and quickly. However we’re doing this purposefully as they’re being planted on contour where they will form a thick, living hedge to help stabilise the bank they’re planted on. Soil will subtly collect on the uphill side of the comfrey, creating an easier space for other plants to thrive – in this case, this will be a clover ground cover.

IMG_0769Plant your bits of root or tiny plants into prepared soil and water them in. In no time at all they’ll be ‘up and at em’.

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One day, in the not too distant future, these little plants will look like this. Image from The Slowpoke.

When is the best time to subdivide comfrey plants? Generally in late Winter when your plants are dormant or early Spring when they’re just putting on new leaves. However, comfrey is bloody hardy stuff and I’ve subdivided them at any time of the year and it has still worked.

You can use comfrey for a large range of things including in your various compost recipes, fodder for animals (in moderation), medicinal purposes (bruises and broken bones) and the large leaves can be harvested and used as a mulch in your garden. Growing up, my folks would juice it up with dandelion leaves, carrot and apple and give it to us when we were sick, it was creatively called the green drink), it always worked a treat (however medical professional recommend not doing this). To read more about these uses in detail check out The Slowpoke’s recent article

Happy subdividing!

* Your blogger is Hannah Moloney, co-director if Good Life and lover os all things fun and garden-esk.

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Adding wood ash into your garden

We predominantly heat our home with a wood fire which does a bang up job. However dealing with all the wood ash that comes out of it has been a bit of a quandary for us. As a result we’ve had an impressive collection of boxes filling up with ash outside our back door, waiting for one of us to think properly about how we can integrate it into our property rather than putting it in the bin.

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Because, while a little bit of wood ash on your garden can be beneficial – a lot of it generally leads to tears as it increases the alkalinity of the soil drastically, affecting the plant’s nutrition. Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil reads 7 on the pH chart and wood ash can throw this out of balance, pushing this number up towards 10.

“Since wood ash is derived from plant material, it contains most of the 13 essential nutrients the soil must supply for plant growth. When wood burns, nitrogen and sulfur are lost as gases, and calcium, potassium, magnesium and trace element compounds remain. The carbonates and oxides remaining after wood burning are valuable liming agents, raising pH, thereby helping to neutralize acid soils” (soil scientist, Dan Sullivan).

Of course, the fertilizer value of wood ash depends on the type of wood you burn. As a general rule, hardwoods (i.e. eucalyptus) yield more ash per kilogram of wood burned and contain a higher percentage of nutrients compare to ash from softwoods such as pine.

ph_nutrient_chartHowever some plants, including asparagus, are more tolerant of slightly alkaline conditions compared to acid-loving plants, such as potatoes, rhododendrons and blueberries. Wood ash should never be used on acid-loving plants.

So while it’s well known that you can add small amounts of wood ash into your compost pile and spread some onto your vegie beds (it can help deter slugs from attacking your seedlings), I’ve always wondered what to do with BULK ash. At our place we’re trialing a little experiment in our garden which revolves around our ever useful and multifunctional swale pathways. Rather than putting a little bit of ash here and there, we’re seeing whether we can get away with bulk seasonal integration of wood ash going directly into our sawdust swale paths.

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Step 1: Simply spread the wood ash out roughly along the length of the swale path

Our swale path’s main job is to catch and store water, but they’re also slow in situ compost piles, meaning that one day, when the sawdust/woodchips have decomposed nicely they will end up on either a vegetable garden or in our orchard. With this in mind, it’s important that they have good mineral profile, we don’t want to mess with it too much, making it significantly alkaline or acidic. Currently we’re comfortable with the ash input, as the ratio of sawdust (mostly from hardwood timber) is high compared to the quantity of ash going into it. Saying that, we would still consider adding something like blood and bone (strong nitrogen content) to ensure it’s neutralised and perhaps even some pine needles (high acidic ingredient).

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Step 2: Vigorously massage the ash into the top layer of the sawdust. With time, rain and gravity the ash will settle deeply into the path, you also could water it in if it’s particularly dry in your area to accelerate this integration process.

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Step 3: Level it out with your rake and feet so it’s easy to walk along again.

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We also added a small amount into our deep litter chicken run which is another form of slow composting in action in our garden. We only put a small amount of ash in as chicken poo’s pH ranges from 6.5 – 8, 8 being fairly high on the alkaline chart so we don’t want to push it over the edge. But, in moderation we’re comfortable to add ash every now and then as a lot of plant waste and other other organic matter is being mixed in at the same time.

In summary:

  • Do a basic pH soil test on your garden so you know whether it’s leaning towards being alkaline or acidic,
  • If you’re using wood ash on your vegie beds or orchards (and don’t have acidic soils), use it very sparingly,
  • Add small amounts into your compost pile/bin every now and then, and
  • As a way of processing ash in bulk, consider adding it into in situ slow composting systems like the swale path or deep litter chicken run. Where required add in other ingredients which can help neutralise (blood and bone) or acidify the contents (pine needles).

The reason we’re so hell bent on keeping ash out of the conventional waste stream is because we’re big fans of nutrient cycling. We’ll do anything we can to keep nutrients onsite as opposed to sending them ‘out there’ where more often than not they transform into pollution. And also, it’s kind of fun to see how much you can really ‘close the loop’ in an urban environment – which is quite a lot!

*Your blogger is Hannah Moloney, co-director of Good Life Permaculture and lover of all things fun and garden-esk.

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Community Composting at its’ Best

A couple of years ago I spent two full and fun years working with Cultivating Community (Melbourne) who are one of Australia’s leading organisations in urban agriculture and community development. While there, I helped kick start what is now called Food Know How, a unique community composting program involving a range of partners and a whole lot of work. The motivation behind this program started with Yarra City Council conducting a waste audit where they discovered that 52.6% of their waste stream was pure food waste – yikes. You can imagine how much it costs to transport waste from Yarra (dense, inner city Melbourne) to the landfill site on the edge of the city (it’s in the millions). Finding ways to cut down on the amount of food waste going in the bin in the first place was put high on the agenda.

To get things rolling, Cultivating Community partnered with Yarra Council and started doing things like the Composter’s Composium, free composting workshops in parks and back lane ways and ran the Compost Mates pilot project. Compost Mates worked with two cafes and a handful of local residents to harvest their food waste to compost it in private compost and mini community compost hubs. It worked, however we needed to do it on a bigger scale to really make an impact.

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Yours truly trialing out the early version of the bike cafe compost collection system. These detachable racks were designed to fit onto the standard bike rack and could easily be removed when not harvesting food scraps. 

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The Composter’s Composium 2011: A free expo where around 200 people hung out in the local part, learned about everything compost, were serenaded by wonderful music and had heaps of fun.

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The ‘Compost Off’, a relay race to see which team can make the best compost pile in the shortest amount of time. Costa was the judge and commentator and the participants included the local Mayor at the time. Bloody hilarious.

And so, Compost Mates morphed into Food Know How and a great team of people have been working to coordinate food scraps being captured in both residential compost systems (in people’s balconies and gardens) and establish a community composting hub at Collingwood Children’s Farm to process bulk cafe food waste.

In short, Cultivating Community committed themselves to:

  • Sign up 500 households and 32 cafes to participate
  • Support participants through regular interaction and visits to their home/business
  • Provide free technical advice on how to maintain a healthy compost, worm farm or Bokashi system
  • Run fun, interactive workshops and events on food waste avoidance and composting
  • Update our website with a suite of tools to help families and business owners reduce food waste in the kitchen.
  • Use cargo trikes to pick up unavoidable food waste from cafes and take them to compost hubs across the city, where we will be able to process the scraps and turn them into nutrient-rich compost
  • Throughout the program we will randomly select participants to assess how much food waste we’re diverting from landfill and will also ask people to complete short surveys, providing valuable feedback to the City of Yarra

nyshNysh modelling the current fancy and fantastic bikes used to collect food scraps from the 32 cafes

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The compost hub is located at the Collingwood Children’s Farm where food scraps from local cafes is composted. Cultivating Community staff member, Kat Lavers, manages this process beautifully. Please note, the general public are not allowed to check out this space without prior arrangements.

2014-06-10 15.47.57The last bay in the line where the food scraps are unrecognisable and the good stuff (compost) is well on its’ way to maturing.

In addition to the large hot compost bays, this compost hub also features two large worm farms. When it comes to composting, worm farming has a lot of added benefits which you can read about here.

 

 

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Cultivating Community CEO (and all round legend), Michael Gourlay, showing me around the worm farms

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When we moved back to Tasmania in 2012, I had serious community composting withdrawals so worked with Hobart City Council and Sustainable Living Tasmania to do a small home-based compost project called Compost Kings and Queens. Over 6 months I worked with 30 households to teach them how to compost as much food waste as they could in their own homes. In this period we conducted strict data collection and managed to divert over 3.3 tonnes of food waste from landfill. Not bad at all. These type of decentralised waste management approaches are comparatively dirt cheap (compared to trucking waste across vast distances) and have so many happy social, environmental and economic outcomes it’s ridiculous.

CKQ DRAFT flyerMargaret Steadman and David Stephens, local sustainability wonders, being the compost king and queen

A snapshot of the Compost Kings and Queens evaluation looks something like this…

  • Recruited 30 households (71 adults and 31 children/teenagers) from the Hobart municipality
  • Diverted 3308.9 kg (3.3 tonnes) of food waste from landfill[1]
  • Prevented 5.2 tonnes Co2 -eq greenhouse gas emissions[2]
  • 92% of participants indicated they would continue composting all their food waste with their current compost system even if food waste kerbside collections were introduced.
  • 84% of participants believed that if their community were supplied with a compost system of their choice and thorough education and support, they would be open to having fortnightly rubbish collections [instead of weekly].
[1] 1 Liter of food scraps = approximately 0.66kg
[2] Food waste in kilograms x 1.6 = Co2 emissions if sent to landfill (National Greenhouse Accounts, July 2012)

Composting is a highly effective technique to process food waste (and other organic materials) in your own garden or balcony. Community composting is taking it up a level (or 10) and is more than just composting – it’s community development/social permaculture in action – it’s beautiful. It can be as simple as you and your neighbour getting together to share a compost bin, or it could be your whole community organising themselves to catch and store this precious nutrient-rich resource that is currently treated as waste. There is a shape and size to suit any context, you just need to start!

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 *Your blogger is Hannah Moloney, co-director of Good Life Permaculture and lover of all things fun and garden-esk.

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How To Make HOT Compost

Hot composting is a great way to process bulk organic matter and process (get rid of) any pathogens (bad bugs) and unwanted plants (weeds). You can spend your whole life studying and practicing compost and still not know everything – it’s such a deep and intricate science. This brief article is merely here to help point you in the right direction in larger scale composting, keep researching and practicing and you’ll just keep learning!

What’s the difference between hot and cold composting?

Hot composting involves building a compost pile (in one go) which is at least one cubic metre in size, any less than this and it wont be able to generate the heat required to break down the organic matter and kill off pathogens (bad bugs) in the desired time frame. Hot composting will easily get up to over 100 degrees if you let it, however the desired temperature is 60/65 degrees. At this level it’s killing off the pathogens (the bad bugs) but not the desired biology, once it gets hotter than this the good biology is also getting killed – not good.

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Nifty thermometers built for the job can help keep an eye on the compost pile’s temperature. Image from here

Cold compost is… you guessed it, cold. It’s usually done on a smaller scale in standard compost bins and is more popular with people with tiny garden spaces. You add to slow compost systems gradually, a small bucket of food scraps and straw every day or so.

There are two things that all composting methods have in common, the first thing is the ingredients. There are 4 universal inputs: carbon, nitrogen, water and air. Carbon ingredients is anything that’s dry and brown (think dead), such as straw, hay, brown leaves, shredded office paper, ripped/scrunched newspaper, cardboard – you get the idea. Nitrogen is anything that’s really fresh including animal manures (horse, cow, chicken, sheep, rabbit etc (leave out cat poo due to the risk of totoxoplasmosis)), green lawn clippings, food scraps and green waste. There are some things I don’t ever put in the compost as it feels wrong, these include invasive grass species (twitch and kikuyu and any seed heads from plants I really don’t wont in my garden). I’ll dry and burn these, give them to the cickens or drown them in a bucket of water instead of putting them in the compost. But that’s just me.

The second thing all compost methods have in common is that these ingredients are layered. Just like a lasagna, the carbon and nitrogen materials are layered, alternating between the two until you’ve reached at least one cubic metre as seen below.

compost pileThe layer of twigs at the bottom helps increase airflow and drainage from the pile. Once that’s down you can get started with your carbon and nitrogen layers.

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This photo is actually from a small compost bin, however you apply this same technique on a large scale when building a hot compost. You may notice there’s some wire mesh on the bottom – this is an add on to prevent rodents from moving in, a handy tip if you have unwanted furry animals raiding your compost bin. 

What ratio of carbon and nitrogen materials should you use?

Most compost books you read will say stick to a carbon/nitrogen ration of 25:1. However it really depends on the materials you have on hand, you’ll find that very rarely will any of them actually be 100% carbon or nitrogen, they’ll always have some of the other in them – if that makes sense. Personally, I’ve found using a ratio of 50:50 works well, sometimes a little less nitrogen and more carbon when I have particularly rich nitrogen ingredients – just to make sure it’s balanced.

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I like making compost with friends, time goes quickly, you learn new things (about each other and composting) and it’s fun. You also get to take silly photos.

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Bridget and Bonnie – friends who compost together stay together

How can you tell when it’s getting hot? When starting out, get yourself a thermometer, that way you can learn what 60/65 degrees looks/feels like. Once you’re feeling comfortable with the whole process your eyes and fingers do the job well.

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Sadly the camera couldn’t catch the compost steam we were admiring above, indicating that our compost pile was hot and ready to be turned.

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Here’s a photo from the Fork and Hoe Collective composting – the early morning light captured the compost steam beautifully.

We don’t cover our piles with any tarpaulins or carpet, we do put a thick layer of straw covering the whole pile to prevent the outside from drying out. However if you live in really high rainfall areas you may need to cover them to make sure it doesn’t get too drenched. We also make free-standing piles with no infrastructure required at all. This means they’re easier to make and turn.

How often should you turn it?

You need to turn the pile to make sure it ‘cooks’ evenly. When you actually turn it is determined by how quickly/slowly it reaches the desired temperature (60/65 degrees), this often happens within 24 hours, other times it can take up to 7 days days – it depends on the inputs. The books will generally say once a week, however the more obsessed you get with compost the more you will refine your practices.

Compost Activators

To help compost be the best it can be you can add compost activators – their job is to inoculate the compost pile with their nutrients, giving it a serious BOOST. Some of the common activators include some plants (comfrey leaves, dandelion, stinging nettle, yarrow leaves, tansy leaves) which all have especially high levels of key minerals. You can also use mature (healthy) compost which will be loaded with biology or road kill which will attract biology quick smart.

What does compost look like when it’s ready?

  • It’s the colour of 70% dark chocolate
  • It’s fluffy and has good ‘crumb’ structure, it doesn’t feel sticky/muddy or dry and sandy – it’s just right
  • When you squeeze a handful of it in your fist, one drop of water (no more) will come out of it – this indicates it has the right moisture content.
  • It smells sweet and earthy

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Image from here

Nervous about composting food scraps?

Start small with a standard compost bin and follow the helpful guide below. Once you’ve got the hang of it, build yourself up to some hot composting – it’s super satisfying.

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Help, my compost is….

Really smelly: It’s too wet and likely to be anaerobic (not enough air), mix in more carbon materials, turn and a touch of lime will help bring it back into balance.

Infested with ants: It’s probably too dry. Add water; cover any exposed food scraps on top of pile with carbon and hessian/felt. Turn the compost.

Taking ages to break down: Not enough nitrogen materials, add more rich materials (food scraps, manure, green lawn clippings) and turn the pile to add more air.

Swamped with small black flies: Make sure you have no exposed food scraps (cover with carbon).

Home to rats and mice: Reduce the amount of bread and meat and if using a small compost bin (which isn’t hot composting) add vermin mesh on the bottom of the compost bin to prevent rodents digging under.

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Vermin mesh is sometimes used for bird aviaries, has really tough wire and very small squares ensuring that baby mice/rats can’t squeeze through. If you’re having trouble with rodents in your hot compost pile, turn it regularly and set some traps… If you’re into that kind of thing.

 

 

 

Interested in doing a hands on composting workshop?

We’re running one this Saturday 10th May, otherwise check out our list of future courses to see what’s coming up.

Resources

*Your blogger is Hannah Moloney, co-director of Good Life Permaculture and lover of all things fun and garden-esk.

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What Worm Farm Is Best For You?

Worms. we love them and actually really need them and so, we foster them. Not the type that crawl under your skin (gross), although they’re probably playing an important role I just don’t know about. We’re talking about the types that live in our soils – keeping busy aerating and cycling nutrients making them more available to other members of the soil food web and to the precious plants which we happen to depend on for a good portion of our survival .

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Did you know that…

In one worm, there is around 474, 075 million bacteria – wowzers. These bacteria do an incredibly important job – mainly making minerals available – more on this below.

When compared to the parent soil (the original soil), worm castings (the worm’s poo) have approximately:

  • 7 times the available phosphorous
  • 6 times the available nitrogen
  • 3 times the available magnesium
  • 2 times the available carbon
  • 1.5 times the available calcium

(Both these facts are from ‘Earthworms in Australia’, David Murphy, pg 26)

The key word used above is ‘available’. The worms do not magic these minerals into existence, they were already present in these quantities, however the worms have changed their form by digesting them (which involves all that bacteria). This process makes them available to plants as the minerals have been changed from being an insoluble form to a plant-available soluble form.

So this is why people keep worm farms – the castings and diluted worm juice (the liquid that comes out of it) are an invaluable fertiliser for food crops. A quick and important note, worm farms can only house compost worms, not your common earth worm you see in the garden or lawn. Compost worms are red wrigglers and tiger worms – you can buy these from nurseries, but you can usually find them at your local school/community garden if you ask nicely. Do not put the common earth worm into a worm farm – they will die.

So what type of worm farm should you have? It all depends, where do you live, i.e. apartment or farm, do you have a big or small garden, do you have lots or only a small amount of of food scraps coming out of your kitchen? Here are some options for you to ponder…

The Wheelie Bin Worm Farm

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CERES Community Environment Park in Melbourne make their own wheelie bin worm farm which can house thousands of worms and a whole lot of food scraps. The great thing about this design is that there quite easy to move, having wheels and all – so perfect for people who are renting or for the busy cafe/workplace who may need to move it around every now and then.

The Bathtub Worm Farm

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The bathtub worm farm is a true beauty and, when designed properly, can double as a table for potting up or doing garden jobs on. A few years ago I worked with the Urban Bush Carpenters in Melbourne to build local NGO, Cultivating Community this fancy worm farm you can see above left for a community garden. As well as doubling as a table, you can also use the space below the bath as storage (as well as having a permanent bucket to capture any worm juice.  You can see more info on this one at Urban Bush Carpenters

The Shop Version

binsOf course you can just go and buy a commercial worm farm from most nurseries or hardware shops, you can even add compost worms to a standard compost bin.

The Styrofoam Worm House

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You make make your own worm farm from styrofoam boxes. Images from here and here

This version is a great way to start if you’re on a low budget as it’s free or very cheap to start. It simply operates on the same system of having layered boxes with holes in the bottom for drainage and for the worms to travel in between. The bottom box has no holes and captures all the worm juice for you to use later as a fertiliser (dilute it so it looks like the colour of weak tea) for the veggie patch.

The Worm Tower

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 We love this one as it’s integrated INTO your garden so the benefits for your food crops are immediate and fantastic. You can buy them commercially, but they’re so easy to make we think you should just do it that way. All you need is some large pipe (ideally no smaller than 200mm wide), a pot plant to fit on the top as a hat and a drill to put holes into it.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis is what it looks like once installed into your garden. Image from here

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Drill a number of holes of various sizes that the worms can travel in and out of. Image from here

But will your worms run away? Not if you continue feeding them fresh food scraps, as long as you do this they’re not going anywhere. It’s a great system for the forgetful  as you can’t kill your worms through neglect, they’ll simply leave and find food elsewhere.

And Then There’s This!

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We haven’t actually seen this in action – but we like it. A chook house / worm farm / mini garden / rain harvester, talk about integrated and spunky – I’d love to see this in real life!

There’s literally a type of worm farm for any context, this is just a taster. Have a fun time exploring the options, just make sure you get one, they’re the bomb.

Worm Resources

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